Aloha to Honolulu: History, Heritage, and Luau Alternatives

Aloha! 

It has been a few years since my last visit to Honolulu, and it was a delight to spend ten days staying with close friends at Joint Base Pearl Harbor-Hickam.

Usually, my visits to Oahu are brief—a one- or two-day port call as the ship transitions between the North American mainland and the Australia/New Zealand season, or as part of a round-trip Hawaiian itinerary out of San Diego.

When you sail to Hawaii, the vastness of the Pacific is part of the experience; it takes several sea days to reach these islands, and you simply accept the grand scale of the distance. Flying, however, offers a different kind of reality check.: The grueling nine-hour flight back to Atlanta is a vivid reminder of just how beautifully isolated this magical archipelago truly is.

Echoes of History

Joint Base Pearl Harbor-Hickam is quietly dotted with historical plaques commemorating the events of December 7, 1941. While I was stopping to read one, a local serviceman kindly invited me inside his building to view an archive exhibit that most civilians never get to see. His passion for the base's history was palpable.

The base is also home to several architectural landmarks in desperate need of specialized care—structures too historically significant to be torn down, but incredibly costly to restore. I have encountered this dilemma in historic ports across the globe, and it always evokes a quiet wish for a generous benefactor to step in and preserve these beautiful bones.

Fortunately, the historic ʻIolani Palace has been blessed with exactly that kind of dedicated preservation.

Going Behind the Ropes

On this itinerary, I wanted to experience Honolulu through a completely fresh lens. My first choice was the exclusive White Glove Tour at ʻIolani Palace, the official royal residence of Hawaiʻi’s last reigning monarchs. Strangely, despite all my maritime stops here, I had never stepped inside.

While the palace offers wonderful standard self-guided and led options, the White Glove experience is limited to just four guests and is personally guided by the palace historian.

The highlight of the tour is being escorted to the private top floor, where preservationists are actively collecting, cataloging, and restoring original palace artifacts. After the overthrow of the monarchy, many royal furnishings were scattered across the globe via public auctions. Hearing the detective stories of how these priceless pieces are being recovered and returned home was fascinating—and holding a few of these unique historical objects was incredibly special.

Traveler's Note: If your itinerary brings you to Honolulu on a Thursday and you are willing to invest a bit more for an unique historical encounter, the White Glove Tour is worth every penny.

Festivals, Food, and Hidden Temples

I am always on the lookout for local heritage festivals, even though tracking them down can require a mountain of research when you are looking at multiple ports of call. Luckily, our timing lined up perfectly with the  Ocean of Peace Festival held on the grounds of the Bishop Museum.

The festival was a vibrant celebration of Micronesian culture through traditional dance, storytelling, and artisan exhibits. I felt a pang of nostalgia seeing the Kiribati display; I had a rare opportunity to visit those remote islands back in 2012 and was hoping to connect with someone staffing the pavilion, but sadly it was unattended. 

Traveler's Note: Even without a festival, the Bishop Museum stands alone as a must-visit cultural anchor in Honolulu.

15 Tastings in Chinatown

I originally hoped to book a local cooking class, but on Oahu, the culinary classes require booking months in advance. If a hands-on kitchen experience sings to you, look early and book immediately.

Instead, I was tickled to discover the Hawaii: Off the Beaten Path Food Tour (booked via Get Your Guide, though operated directly by Hawaii Free Tours). The only other time I have experienced a tasting menu this extensive was in Kolkata, India. Our exceptional guide, Victor, walked us through more than 15 distinct tastings—ranging from exotic local fruits and fresh sushi to traditional manapua and perfectly seasoned poke.

The tour runs Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays starting at 9:30 AM, making the timing absolutely ideal for cruise guests looking to maximize a day in port. Hawaii Free Tours also offers free walking tours meeting at the Kamehameha statue (across from Iolani Palace) Tuesday and Thursday mornings at 9:00am.

Forgoing Waikiki

Rains in the weeks leading up to my arrival ruled out some of the island's more ambitious, muddy ridge hikes. However, my friend Deb had bookmarked a fascinating alternative: the Koko Crater Botanical Garden loop.

It features an arid landscape you don't traditionally associate with tropical Hawaii, including a collection of towering cacti. While it was a distinct and pleasant walk, it wouldn't necessarily top my list of must-do Hawaiian hikes if your time on the island is limited.

A traveler friend from a past expedition to India had recommended the Byodo-In Temple to me years ago. I had bookmarked it then, but didn't entirely connect the dots until we drove into the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park on the windward side of the island. Nestled against the dramatic cliffs of the Koʻolau Range, it is a profoundly peaceful, meditative sanctuary that offers a beautiful respite from the bustling city.

We also caught comedian Margaret Cho at the historic Hawaii Theatre and attended the new Cirque du Soleil production, 'Auana, at the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort.

With some of the massive, traditional tourist luaus wrapping up operations, 'Auana offers a brilliant, modern entertainment alternative. It weaves world-class acrobatics and contemporary dance with authentic Hawaiian storytelling. It  is purely a theatrical show—no dinner is served—but the surrounding area is packed with dining options.

Personally, I confess I am not a fan of the modern Waikiki strip. With its abundance of recognizable luxury chains and mega-resorts, it can feel like Las Vegas or Orange County dropped onto a beach. Why travel thousands of miles and spend top dollar for a commercial atmosphere you can easily find on the mainland? In my opinion - seek the heritage and culture instead.

Wellness Round Up

When I first launched this blog, I was publishing on a weekly or bi-weekly basis, which made it easy to share incremental progress toward my health and fitness goals. Because my posts are now spaced a bit further apart, I am taking some time to reflect on the true purpose of this section.

While public accountability is incredibly useful for me, I want to ensure that what I share here provides genuine value, inspiration, or insight for you, my readers. I am currently working on a way to re-envision this space so that it serves us both beautifully. Stay tuned for a fresh format!

In the meantime, my culinary wellness got a yummy boost in Hawaii. I clipped a few traditional recipes from the local newspaper and have already tested one out in my own kitchen since returning. The verdict? It’s a keeper.

I also received an unexpected emotional wellness boost just before my tour of ʻIolani Palace. While having lunch at Cafe Julia, I noticed several display cabinets filled with global curios. To my surprise and delight, there was a collection of miniature Delft blue KLM houses—the exact same ones that Dirk and I collect. It was a beautiful, comforting connection to my husband while being so apart, and a lovely nod to our upcoming Dutch adventures.

That’s all for now. Next up: the compass points back to Europe for a long weekend in the Netherlands, followed by a Seabourn Quest Mediterranean sailing.

Bon Voyage & Bon Appétit!