Marseille, Gibraltar & Barcelona: In Search of Mediterranean Cruise Port Research
Spoiler alert: I am creating more shipboard presentations.
Over the last few months, I generated outlines and photo wish lists for another 7–8 talk concepts. Once Dirk and I returned to the Oosterdam in Livorno, I hit the ground running to research three of them on location.
Marseille: Checking in on Edmond Dantès
Marseille was first up. I headed out to the Château d’If to see the real-life setting that inspired The Count of Monte Cristo. I was surprised by how many people—especially families—had the exact same idea. According to Google, there are around 40 film and television adaptations, including a 2026 PBS miniseries starring Sam Claflin and Jeremy Irons.
Getting to the island is straightforward:
Location: Head to Marseille’s Vieux-Port (about a 20-minute walk from the cruise shuttle drop-off point).
Tickets: Look for the Calanques ticket booth directly across from the Visitor Center on the north side of Vieux-Port.
Cost: A combo ticket covering the round-trip ferry and island admission is €21 per adult.
Note: If you want to visit neighboring Île de Frioul, that is operated by a different company and requires a separate ticket.
I caught the 10:15 AM first boat of the day and returned on the 12:45 PM ferry. This gave me plenty of time to wander the fortress and grab a bite to eat. Weather-wise, morning was the right choice—temperatures were manageable on the shade-free rock, and the skies were clear before afternoon haze rolled in.
Traveler’s Note: Organized tour groups also favor the early ferries, so expect the interior of the Château to get busy quickly.
Gibraltar: History, Nostalgia, and "Ladies Who Lunch"
I have been to Gibraltar many times, so I was surprised to realize how few historic tunnel photos I had in my archives. Plenty of Barbary macaque photos. but tunnels, not so much.
In search of specific WWII images (and short on time to hike up into the Nature Preserve tunnels), I targeted the historic Rock Hotel. Their website featured archive photos of Winston Churchill visiting, and I hoped to view them in their lobby gallery. I booked a lunch reservation and trooped up the hill.
I didn't find the exact photograph I wanted, but lunch felt like stepping directly into the 1960s. From the retro decor and traditional menu to the gentleman in a suit-and-tie tripling as maître d', waiter, and busboy, I felt completely removed from the rush of the modern world. Even the two ladies lunching at the table ahead of me looked like they could have been my great-aunts. It was a lovely, quiet respite from the August heat.
While dining, I overheard a newly arrived couple discussing their upcoming wedding in Gibraltar. It brought back fond memories of when Dirk and I came to Gibraltar nearly five years ago for the exact same reason! I made sure to offer my congratulations. (Side note: dear friends Debbie and Vince are sailing in a few weeks on an itinerary that stops in Gibraltar, and we can't look forward to showing them where we tied the knot.)
Before leaving, I asked our waiter about the Churchill photo. He lit up, perhaps assuming I was a fellow WWII history buff. While the hotel didn't have the original print on site, he pointed me toward the local heritage society in town. It wasn't there either, but I stumbled across a fun alternative that could servce nicely for my talk. On my next visit in September, I’ll budget time to go back up to the tunnels.
Barcelona: Gothic Secrets and La Rambla Realities
For my Barcelona presentation, I am digging into the darker history of the Gothic Quarter—from the city executioner and the plague to the Jewish Call and the story of St. Eulàlia.
To tackle an extensive photo list efficiently without doubling back, I mapped out a walking route with a little help from my AI pal Gemini. I made it through about two-thirds of the shot list before the heat and hunger took over. I took shelter in a charming little tapas spot in the Jewish Call, La Alcoba Azul, followed by a some spontaneous shopping—because it is Barcelona, after all. I have a guided Gothic Quarter tour booked for this week to gather remaining photos and insights, and we return several times this summer if I need to fill any gaps.
La Rambla Reality Check: La Rambla remains heavily torn up under major transformation work, which is projected to wrap up in early 2027. If sitting at an outdoor café on the main boulevard to people-watch is on your bucket list, you may want to hold off for a bit.
La Rambla is also notorious for pickpockets. As I walked along the construction fencing, I wondered whether the works have slowed them down or simply pushed them toward new tactics. Seeing a little girl's purse hanging abandoned on a construction fence made me hope she simply dropped it rather than having it taken. Stay alert and keep your belongings secure!
Navigating Wellness: The Check-In
These last few days, I have been fighting off an annoying summer bug with an elevated temperature. Feeling wiped out is always a drag when you’d rather be exploring, but it was a good reminder to build real rest into the day—there is genuine wisdom in the Mediterranean siesta!
Then there is the sun and heat. Having recently attended a wellness session on sun exposure and heat stroke, a few key reminders feel especially relevant in August:
Sunscreen Math: SPF 30 blocks roughly 97% of UVB rays, while SPF 50 blocks about 98%. Beyond SPF 50, you hit diminishing returns for the extra cost. Look for broad-spectrum coverage to protect against both UVA and UVB, and reapply every couple of hours.
Eye Protection: A recent reminder from my eye doctor—quality UV-blocking sunglasses are essential for long-term eye health and slowing the advance of cataracts.
Listen to Your Body: Heat stroke and exhaustion are serious. Keep hydrated, seek shade, and rest when your body asks for it. (As always, I share these as traveler suggestions rather than medical advice—always seek guidance from healthcare professionals!)
A Tale of Three Lunches
Looking back through my photos from these three research days, I realized my midday meals perfectly mirrored the distinct personality and heritage of each port:
Marseille: A classic, effortless focaccia enjoyed at the Chateau—fresh, simple, and distinctly French-Mediterranean.
Gibraltar: A traditional coronation chicken salad sandwich—a retro throwback that felt pure 1960s British colony.
Barcelona: A spread of authentic tapas in a Jewish Call tavern—vibrant, savory, and rich with local history.
Barcelona olives, cheese and bread Barcelona peppers stuffed with goat cheese and sbagliato Barcelona leeks with hazelnut dressing and labne Marseille focaccia Gibraltar coronation chicken
It’s funny how much a simple lunch can capture the spirit and story of a place.
We are hours away from the total solar eclipse here in Spain! I look forward to sharing my next post about the special experience of witnessing totality onboard the Oosterdam.
Bon Voyage & Bon Appétit!
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